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Kitsch at Café Miranda PDF Print E-mail
Written by Nora Cavin   
Saturday, 03 March 2007

Feature Recipe
Pitch a Tent

Serving:  1 full meal (Sous chef Dave jokes that Miranda is known for its small portions; don’t believe him!)

2 links quality hot Italian sausage
1 ½ cups pearl onion, peeled (if frozen, thaw first)
1 cup sliced fresh mushrooms
3 cups torn fresh kale
1 tbsp minced garlic
1 cup Marsala wine
1 cup heavy cream
1 8X8” sheet pasta  (Fresh is preferred, but quality dried can be found in gourmet or specialty shops.  Strips of lasagna noodles can be substituted in a pinch.)
Olive oil, only the best
1 sprig fresh thyme (dried if you must, but only a small amount)
1 cup quality beef broth or your own veal stock
Fresh chives and/or cracked black pepper as garnish
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The Bathroom Jingle
I smell garlic
The green cape halfway down Oak Street, once a gaming establishment known as the Owl Benevolent and Fraternal Club, has for 14 years been home to Café Miranda. Owned by chef Kerry Altiero and his wife, full partner/dessert chef/server/ whatever-else Ev Donnelly.   Miranda was named for their first dog, whose ashes and food and water bowls are enshrined on a shelf above the small, lively dining room.
    Bread baked in the wood-fired brick oven sustains diners as we try to choose from among dozens of items on the irrepressibly eclectic menu.  Mix and match a few of the “small” plates—roast asparagus or exotic mushrooms, wakami scallops, roast Romano-chive polenta, tandoori lamb—for a meal that’s anything but square; one of the heaping platters provides me with next day’s lunch as well.
Café Miranda
Café Miranda
Café Miranda, Rockland Maine
Flames of Passion
On the Line
On the Line
    Funky yard sale-type salt and pepper shakers and other curios decorate the tables, and one patron, emerging from the unisex Elvis bathroom, is heard to proclaim, “Elvis spoke to me!  He said he smells garlic.”    I sit at the counter, ringside, and watch Kerry whirl around the snug open kitchen, pull duck breast, mussels, chicken mole out of the brick oven, feint around the sous chef and crew, grab tongsful of cilantro, smoky peppers, sheep’s-milk ricotta, sprinkle on black sesame and malt vinegar–theatre as vivid as the food.  My Pitch a Tent arrives, a vast dish of pork sausage and fresh kale, wood roasted, camping in pan gravy under a “tent” of fresh pasta.
    It’s the best sort of good time, I think, happily digging in.  All of it.

–Nora Cavin
 
Café Miranda, Mobo Foods, Rockland Maine
Selection of Goods
Last Updated ( Thursday, 15 March 2007 )
 
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